Q: What size fan should I use?
A: This is more related to the number of air exchanges, in a given period, you desire for proper plant transpiration. It is not a question of what is best for odor elimination. It is best to use the lowest cfm fan available to accomplish this exchange. Watch this video. BIG BLUE ozonators come in varying diameters from 4 to 12 inches. The larger diameters are not only designed to fit your existing ventilation ducting but also ever higher fan volumes. In other words the 12 inch BIG BLUE will handle more cfm than the 4 inch.

Q: Do I need a mixing chamber?
A: The BIG BLUE is designed as an air purification chamber. As the odor bearing air is exhausted from your grow space it is directed through the ducting to the BIG BLUE. There the odorous air is exposed to high intensity ultraviolet light that kills on contact. Its polished stainless steel surfaces help to increase this intensity so that “baffling systems” and long lengths of ducting are not required.

Q: Won’t a carbon filter eliminate odors?
A: Yes and No. What we at Big Blue Air Products are striving to achieve is the 100% solution to eliminating grow room odors. Garden odor is primarily bacteria based. This bacteria is so small that it requires high powered microscopes to view. Bacteria so small that filters, alone, cannot remove all of it from the air.

Q: What is the difference between corona discharge (CD) and ultraviolet light (UV) ozone?
A: CD ozonators use an exposed electrical arc to generate ozone. A byproduct of Corona Discharge ozonation is nitric acid. When mixed with moisture from the humidity in the grow space this corrosive “syrup” contaminates the surfaces that produce the ozone. This requires frequent cleaning of the arcing surfaces or the contamination will reduce the ozone output of the generator. UV lamps use concentrated ultraviolet light waves to produce ozone. These bulbs do not produce harmful residues. Humidity does not affect their function. There is no need for cleaning of the UV lamps during the plants growth cycle.

Corona Discharge produces more ozone, but not in high humidity environments. You may have experienced static electricity. This happens in extremely dry conditions. However, when it's damp outside, not so much. For hydroponics this gives the edge to the Big Blue and its UV lamps.

Humidity does not affect their function.

Q: Will the high humidity levels, of my garden, affect the ozone output?
A: Ultraviolet bulbs could be immersed in water (do not try this at home) and continue to produce ozone. Ultraviolet lamps are used extensively to purify the water in pools, spas, ponds and bottled drinking water. Corona Discharge, on the other hand, uses an exposed electrical arc to produce ozone. Would you put your toaster in the bathtub and expect it to continue to brown your bread?

Q: What is the difference between ozone and ionization?
A: The four most effective methods of purifying the air we breath are: ultraviolet light, active oxygen, purifying hydroxyls, and negative ions. Ultraviolet light produces all of these odor fighters. Ionizers, by themselves, create negative ions which attach themselves to solid particles, such as dust, pollen, soot, smoke, etc.. This particulate then drops from suspension to form a harmless dust. Ionizers alone will not eliminate 100% of the odor causing contaminates.

Q: Will your "Big Blue" discolor the paint on my walls?
A: No. But, Ionizers are known to create the "black wall" effect. This is a condition where high levels of negative ions, although considered healthy for you, can blacken walls and furnishings by "magnetically" attaching to themselves.

Q: Do I need a pre-filter?
A: A filter is not required. But we suggest a simple filter to extend the life of your fan. Dust, pet hair and other airborne particles mix with the growing humidity and become a wet mess. This mixture can foul the fan blades and mechanisms. Using some old panty hose material stretched over the inlet to the exhaust fan and secured with duct tape will help minimize this contamination. This "panty hose" filter is easily replaced when you do your regular garden maintenance.

Q: Will high heat levels effect the ozone output?
A: Yes. Blue Air Products has compensated for the heat that is produced by grow room lights. We use larger and multiple lamps to produce enough ozone to adjust for this heat. You may install the Big Blue as close to the odor source as possible without concern for the increased temperature levels from the Grow lights.

Q: Can I mount the BIG BLUE in the exhaust ducting attached to the light hood?
A: Yes, see the answer to the previous question.

Q: Will ozone remove the fragrance from my plants?
A: No, when used properly. The inline ozonators are designed to be installed in the exhaust ducting. This ozonated air is to be directed outside of any grow areas and living spaces. View this video.

Q: What about the odors in my home or grow space?
A: Small or timed ozonators help repel spider mites, airborne pathogens, molds and mildews. Though ozone only has a half life of about 30 minutes (before it reverts back to oxygen) these ozonators must be on a timed system. When the smell of ozone becomes objectionable or you esperience a headache, it is typically at too high a level. Short bursts of ozone, rather than long continuous ones is superior when incorporated within your garden setting. For low odor levels, 1to3 minutes on and 10 minutes off will not produce dangerous levels of 03. As the odor increases, then longer on and off times of up to 3to5 minutes in every 10 minutes will clean the air in a 10 X 10 foot room without harming your plants.

Q: Should I be in the room when the ozonator is running?
A: It is always best to err on the side of caution. If you follow the BIG BLUE instructions, (though you find the odor of ozone objectionable) ozone will not be at dangerous levels in the room. But with the aid of an additional timer you may want to turn off the ozonator 30 minutes before you enter the grow space. Ozone only lasts about 30 minutes before it reverts back to oxygen (O2). This should allow sufficient time for the ozone to dissipate.

"Although the decomposition (half life) precludes the possibility of large amounts of ozone being present, ozone, like all chemicals capable of oxidation, is a hazardous substance, and ozone-generating equipment can produce dangerous levels of the gas. The United States Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) has standards for the exposure to ozone. Research indicates that there are no irreversible effects caused by accidental exposure to low non-lethal concentrations of ozone. As a general principle, however, breathing even low levels of ozone should be avoided at all times. Further information can be obtained from OSHA or the International Ozone Association, Pan American Group, 31 Strawberry Hill Avenue, Stamford, CT 06902".

Q: How can I tell when the ozone levels are too high?
A: A very small percentage of people could be considered ozone sensitive. These people will find the smell of ozone, at any level, to be too much. The EPA and the FDA have stated that levels below .05 ppm, are safe for humans. Again, some people will find any level of ozone approaching this level to be overpowering. Fortunately, it takes long term exposure at levels approaching .1ppm to cause any harm. Even at dangerously high ozone levels, you could easily enter the room and turn off the ozonator without physical damage.

Q: Do I need to clean the BIG BLUE?
A: Unlike corona discharge systems, it is not necessary to clean the unit every 3 to 4 weeks. But, you may want to wipe the UV bulb and stainless surfaces clean after every grow cycle. This will keep the BIG BLUE functioning at optimal levels. Be especially careful around the tiny starter lamps as these are very fragile.

Q: I am looking for a generator than can handle approximately 3000 cfm. Do you custom make units that would handle this volume and could still be connected to eight inch ducting? I was told to simply put a couple of your 12 inchers in a row, but this might not work for me.
A:The volume of air (3000 cfm) that you are pushing through 8 inch ducting is not the issue. But, ozone contact time is (watch this video for more info).On the one hand the faster the air moves the more ozone is created as the smashing of the oxygen molecules (02), in this environment, creates more 03 ozone molecules. But the downside is that the odors exposure time, to the ozone, is diminished. If you have the space, I would recommend using a 12 inch Big Blue, this would allow for shorter ducting runs, if needed. Or exhaust into the attic. Using reducers/enlargers to fit it into your 8 inch ducting. Also, you way wish to have a sheet metal shop construct a bafflebox/mixing chamber (click here for a video reference) that would be installed on the downwind/pressure side of the ozonator. This would aid in a more thorough mixing of the odor/ozone in the shortest possible distance.

Q: In our city (Houston, TX) we already have high ozone days that instigate warnings for respiratory health. if I am using ozone in my indoor garden, will this increase my health risk?
A: As you know, ozone is the most dangerous component of smog. This ozone is created when the sun reacts with hydrocarbons (the major component of smog) in the atmosphere. Ozone can be very harmful if you are asthmatic or have allergies. You are also probably aware that ozone is extremely unstable. The measurement of ozone in cities is taken out of doors. If the same measurements were taken inside your home (with the HVAC running and the windows open) it would only be 1/10th of the outside measurement. Also many of the machines that we have in our homes (ie laser printers or copiers) produce harmful levels of ozone, for some people! Blue Air Products would never recommend, if you have these conditions, that you use our products while you are in your enclosed hydroponic garden. When you are using the Big Blue to sterilize your grow space, between harvest and planting, it should be run on a timer or be turned off 30 minutes before you re-enter the enclosed garden. This time allows the unstable ozone molecules to revert back to harmless oxygen.

Q: I am about to purchase your 8" model. I have read somewhere that the life span of the bulb is only 14-18 months. If this is true, how much are the replacements? Please tell me all about the maint. of the bulbs and anything that might need changing.
A: The total life of the bulb (depending on the manufacturing quality and all in use conditions being optimal) is about 18 months of continuous use (to know more, click here for the video). Understand that an Ultra Violet Bulb is much like an MH bulb. The light may be on, but its growing potential has long since perished. From about the 12th month the ozone output begins to decrease until the 18th month and then you probably will smell very little ozone. It is best to err on the cautious side when replacing the bulbs. So the recommendations are usually 14 to 18 months for replacement. You don't want to be without odor control and annoy your neighbors. With the 8 inch BIG BLUE you have 3 bulbs. Unless you've undersized for the application, it is unlikely you will have all bulbs working all the same time. In other words you may only have one bulb burning for the first quarter of the growth cycle and then add lamps as the growth and odor increase.
Therefore, you would not have to replace all the bulbs at the same time. If you are very serious about your garden maintenance you could date the times for each lamp and buy replacements as needed. The replacement cost as of 03/12 is $50. per lamp. As for maintenance , at the end of each grow cycle when you are cleaning your garden containers and doing maintenance, it might be prudent to clean the inside reflective surfaces of your BB. The polished surface almost doubles the effectiveness of the UV lamps.
Also wipe down the bulbs